Body Work
Most of the manufactured Sevens, like the Stalker or even the Caterhams use an aluminum floor. I saw no reason to  weld in steel for mine so I bought 16 gauge hardened aluminum and used that.
I cut it with these sheers I got from Harbor freight.
I drilled holes and kept things lined up with clecos. I used screws like for this purpose along with a polyurethane adhesive to attach the panels. It seems to work well for the stalker guys.
The chassis is painted and I've got the floors in. Then I got the bulkhead cut and installed.
I've been dreaming of this for a long time now. It feels to get this far.
I got the firewall and related panels cut in the aluminum and installed then I made paper patterns for the sides and cut them out. I used clecos to attach it for test fits and trimming.
Here it is riveted in place. It sticks up above the side rail to be wrapped around.

Here's a shot of the wrap both inside and out. I'm using a soft grade .05 thickness aluminum. Just light of 1/16" thick. It had been both easy to work and thick enough to stay put.
June 3 2009
This is my paper patterns for the rear quarter panels.
This is some months later, close to a year, maybe.  May/June 2009
A belated shot of the firewall.  I'll make a box for the center section for the battery. It will hang down just on top of the transmission. I'll mount the coils and remote reservoirs about where they are sitting now.
Cutting the pieces
Getting the pieces fit and bent around the frame. This went easier than I expected.
The back completed. Although this could have come out a bit better I thought it went well for the first time I ever did any aluminum work. I probably could have spent more money for sheet metal tools but I just don't know if I would ever use them again. I'll build a wood top for the "boot" with a locking door in it. It will have a drop edge that will cover all the top rivets. The camera really brings out all the, even tiny, imperfections in the metal but I think it will look pretty good in the end.
Lights, Gas filler, and licence plate frame.
I made a paper pattern  using poster board from the drug store. I marked and cut a piece of aluminum and ran it through my Harbor Freight beading roller to get the front edge offset for the hood. I drilled and taped these small flat head screws through the steel I built into the fire wall several years ago. I had this all planned out back a number of years ago.
Getting the aluminum to wrap around the 1" tubing I made the front of the shuttle from wasn't as easy as I had envisioned it. This shot is after I did some grinding to flatten out the wrinkles. the drivers side was worse and cracked in a couple places with the grinding. There were a coupled other problems so I decided to cut another piece and start over.
These photos show the bending process nonce the piece is screwed down to the firewall.and the lower body work. The scuttle will be removable so I can do the interment wiring before I reattach it and paint. the corners bent better than last time although I did come up a little short. I'll figure out something here in the next few days. I'm not going to try to do this again partly because I'm out of aluminum.

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Here's the scuttle pretty much finished. I've sanded it up to 400 because it needed some flattening and it will paint in the end.  doesn't look all that bad for a novice body man.
Here is the rear deck cover with a small tool box built in, using what space I had available. I made it from aircraft plywood and covered it with fiberglass and resin. I had to make the apron a good bit stronger than just a layer of 1/8" plywood.
Here it is primed and the box sprayed with trunk paint. I got the roll bars painted too.
I'm working out a pattern for the hood. I've added fill in pieces where my first try didn't cover as needed.  I got the scoop from Speedway for $50 I think. It would have cost me that much to make one. It fit just right too.
I traced the pattern above and made a new clean one.
Here's the finished pattern. I'm ready to cut aluminum. I have my catches and the scoop.
I made a simple bending form from a piece of 4" PVC. I just screwed the stick to the saw horses and the pipe to the stick, very simple, and hand bent the hood using this form.
Well, the pattern turned out so good that this is the fit I got with only one try. Just a little more work to do on the final fit and I'm ready for paint.

The upper bolt is in an hole I opened up a bit and tapped. the lower hole I drilled and tapped both.
The cross brace really stiffened up the rear upright a lot since I didn't have a hole to bolt into on that side. I didn't want to drill into the actual spindle.
I welded spacers on the back for clearance. I cut a slot in the rods and welded them on both sides of the plate.
I bend the plates a bit for about 3/4" spacing to the tires.
When I tried to cut the uprights off at just the right angle and height, I of course, cut the first one a little short, so I got some 1/2" id pipe and machined them out to fit as a sleeve. That made it easy to get the angle just right and then to get the height just right as well. I brazed this all together with nickel bronze rod just like I did the chassis.,
This is a raw fender before I trimmed them down a little.
This seems like a really big deal. I finally got the fender stays made and installed. I've wondered how I was going to do this for years now. So I'm nearly done with building the car. Whoo Hooo
The finders trimmed and mounted. all ready to paint.
My make shift paint booth. I was trying to control dust but it only worked somewhat. Better than nothing, I guess, and I didn't get paint all over the garage.
The paint is Jaguar racing green. I still have the stripe to do on the hood, and polish and wax.