Building a Remote Shifter
The first thing I did was have a new, longer shaft machined to replace the original shaft.
It was way more complicated to remove the shaft than I first thought so I had a transmission shop do it for me. The trans which was sold to me as a 95 turned out to be an 84 and of course a couple shafts were pretty worn and it needed new syncros, bearings, and seals. So I had it rebuilt.

This is the new, longer shaft installed on the shifter yokes right before reassembly.

Here's where the problem comes in.

My machinist tried twice to get the shaft cut right but there is a hole in the center of the shaft that has to be in just the right place and angle. when he couldn't get the hole just right the trans wouldn't shift so aftet two attempts................. on to plan B.

We reinstalled the original shaft and I had the machinist make a block that would press into the hole in the factory block ( marked with the red arrow), then we drilled thought the new block and installed a 5" long extra shaft out the back of the shifter box.
This shows my Borg-Warner T5 transmission installed in the chassis.
I used a Camero trans and the shifter box in further back than any other T5.  Still , as far back as I could place the engine the stick will be under the dash and I want the dash to extend down to the trans tunnel in the center. So...I need to move the stick back another 5" to but it about even with the steering wheel and in a comfortable position.
I've known this since I first installed the engine and have had about two years to think about this. 
(I know, I could have a long bent stick, maybe even a skull with eyes that light up, but I don't believe I will, thank you.)

I'll have to build a remote shifter.
I'm sorry and I don't mean to offend anyone but the ones set up with a stick and linkage that shifts the original stick just seem a bit Mickey Mouse to me, so what I thought I'd do was extend the shifter shaft out the back of the trans and install another block on the end of the shaft to mate up with the stick. I'll make a new platform for the stick, back another 5" to place it where I want it.
I still need the original block in the box as it engages the shift pattern and keeps the stick in place.

Here's the shaft coming out of the shifter box with the second shift block mounted on the new shaft. I'll have to make a new seal for the back of the trans.






I have welded up a platform to mount the shifter and you can see the shifter extending down into the hole in the block. This seems to work fine.
I hope there isn't a clearance issue with the yoke though. (I have now checked this and will have to trim down the bottom of the block a bit to clear the yoke.)
I'll weld up some short sides on the platform for extra strength, it flexes a bit now.
Now the stick is back even with the steering wheel and back of where I want the dash to come down to those cross members, well, the cross member isn't welded in yet. In fact I may rebuild the trans tunnel to make a little more room for my seats.
I'll also make a new stick that will be about 3" long. This one is way to long.
this is an after market short throw shifter.
I want the stick to be very short and have a very tight throw.
Here's a couple shots of the reworked block on the shifter. I should have enough clearance for the yoke now.
I have a plug in the big hole on the back of the shifter box installed now, too.
So I guess it is complete now.
The whole remote shifter with stick and knob complete and working. I hope.